EXOLORE CANADA 67
The Centennial has added several hundred more reasons for holidaying in Canada this year, from Expo 67 to the naval cavalcade in Victoria. In the following pages we’ve plotted a west-to-east tour of a nation with a century to celebrate, and added a fourpage guidebook of the best centennial events across the country
BRITISH COLUMBIA British Columbia is a good starting point for a wesl-to-east Centennial summer tour across Canada, not only for the obvious reason that it's as far west as you can get, but also because it’s the most experienced province when it comes to celebrating hundredth birthdays. There was one in 1958, marking the founding of the Crown Colony of British Columbia (mainland), and another only last year, observing the merger of the Vancouver Island colony and the mainland colony. There will be a fourth centennial party in 1971 to mark BC's entry into Confederation.
But don't get the idea that BC is taking its third centennial for granted. If Victoria, starting point of the tour, seems less than frenzied, that’s because the capital city of 55.000 has a reputation to live up to. a reputation for being A Little Bit of Olde England, all hoary with ivy and tradition, with its spiritual headquarters in the baronial Empress Hotel (which has its own Centennial project in the shape of a discreet renovation). Victoria will celebrate decorously with such traditional festivities as a cricket tournament and the visit of a Centennial naval assembly of the ships of several countries. There will be international naval parades, ships' band concerts, fireworks and ship illuminations (July 14-20). The city’s principal Centennial projects are the Confederation Garden Court on Signal Hill — the combined museum, archives library, auditorium and art gallery (still abuilding) — and the 300-foot aluminum Skydeck Observation Needle soaring above the picture-postcard harbor.
The highway from Victoria traverses the Saanich peninsula, through fir forest, little lakes, fields all clipped and green and homes that can only be described as uniformly trim. Of course, the Saanich homeowners, mostly retired prairie people, always keep their property spie and span, but it's a foretaste of something you'll notice clear across Canada: there’s scarcely a community that hasn't staged its “paint up, clean up, beautify for Centennial year” campaign. Canada has never before been as well manicured. Don’t be surprised, either, if in the late dusk you drive into a town that is lighted up as if for Christmas. A national “decorate with lights for Centennial” campaign is finding some support.
Vancouver Island ferries leave Swartz Bay every hour for a 90-minute voyage to the mainland through the Gulf Islands, off-the-track home of fourth-generation pioneers, writers and artists who’ve turned their backs on civilization’s rat race.
The ferry butts into Tsaw w assen Terminal, 17 miles from Vancouver, now locked irrevocably into a sprawling lower mainland area with a million souls. There will be many more than a million present if you happen to be in Vancouver between August 19 and September 4. when a souped-up Centennial version of the Pacific National Exhibition — “North America's fourthlargest annual fair” — is held.
Vancouver is a city with an unprepossessing downtown, but with a style few North American cities can match —a careless blend of the forest primeval and the sophisticated affluent life that can become distinctly habit-forming.
But you must tear yourself away from Vancouver eventually, for all Centennial Canada lies ahead. By actual count there are more than four thousand “Centennial things” happening in this country in 1967, ranging all the way from a small-town square dance to celebrate the opening ('I a Centennial community playground, to the Pan-American Games at Winnipeg and Montreal’s Greatest Show on Earth. Expo 67. Crossing Canada. you will have the opportunity of catching many of the major Centennial events at more than one place, for they are national in scope — and mobility. (See special listings of cross-country events elsew-here on these pages.)
So you head eastward from Vancouver along the Port Mann freeway, gleaming new through the lush Fraser Valley. Over to your left lie the blue hills of the Harrison Lake country, where dwell the Sasquatch, the hairy giants, Canada’s own Abominable Snowmen. Nobody has ever seen one, of course, but many people believe that they exist. What a Centennial project it would be to bring back a photograph of one!
At Hope, 100 miles east of Vancouver, the traveler is faced with his first choice of alternative routes. Penticton, farther east, is celebrating with a lavish peach festival (August 2-6). But the north beckons, along Simon Fraser’s perilous exploration route of 1808, and that of the California gold-seekers of 1858.
At Williams Lake, if you’re there between June 29 and July 1. you'll run headlong into a real up-country, no-holds-barred rodeo and stampede. At Quesnel. another decision: turn right to
Barkcrville, historic mining town of the Cariboo gold rush, now meticulously restored to its former glory, or keep on north to the Yukon and Alaska, the young state which is sharing its own centennial with Canada’s by joining the Yukon in several projects, including mountain-climbing and mass navigation of the Yukon River by flotillas of boats.
Backtrack now to Kamloops, jumping-off point for some of the finest trout fishing in North America. A turn-off past Kamloops leads into the Okanagan Valley, famous for fruit, clean busy towns, fishing, boating. It's worth any family’s day to tour this warm dry valley, called the California of Canada — even by Californians, who come by the thousand every year and arc expected in record numbers in this summer. Next is the Shuswap Lake country, gradually being discovered as a fabulous resort area.
You leave British Columbia via one of the most spectacular stretches of the Trans-Canada Highway, the Rogers Pass. The highway sails on along the grey Rockies into Yoho National Park until suddenly, although nothing else has changed, a sign welcomes you to Alberta.
Canada from a helicopter
National Film Board cameraman “Jeep” Boyko spent 18 months getting a new slant on Canada coast to coast (Vancouver, far right), from a helicopter. Flere's how he did it — on following pages, his reactions
One of the best places to explore Canada this year is at your neighborhood movie palace. M a n y ha v e b o o k ed Helicopter Canada, a film commissioned by the C e n t e n n ial C o m -mission and produced by the National Film Board. It was shot entirely from a helicopter, and it's one of the best travelogues ever made. The film’s presiding genius is Eugene tJeep) Boyko, an ex-taxi driver who has been an NEB cameraman since 1951. Using a French-built helicopter and a specially designed camera mount that eliminates vibration, he spent the better part of 18 months hovering over several hundred thousand miles of land-
scape, shooting 24 miles of wide-screen color film.
Sometimes it wasn’t easy. Once, when Boyko and pilot Claude Fourcade became absorbed in pursuing a golden eagle, they almost crashed into a mountain. During one Arctic sequence, Boyko’s hands froze in the 60-below temperature and he lost the use of three fingers for several days. And then there was the time a film clip sprung open, hit him in one eye and blinded it for eight days. "It wasn't that bad," says Boyko. "I could still see out of my shooting eye.’’
But the results were worth it. Helicopter Canada shows the country as it’s never been seen before. On the following pages (in the panels) are stills from the film, with Boyko’s comments. If everything looks tall and skinny, it’s because up took our pictures direct from Boyko's Panavision film frames, uncorrected by a projector. We thought they looked more interesting that way.
On the Centennial agenda: raft-racing, powwows, flapjack breakfasts, and “the greatest
THE ALBERTA: The Trans-Canada Highway runs 331 miles through Alberta, with 59 miles within Banff National Park. II you're camping or trailering, you have nothing to worry about clear across the province. There tue I 3 camp grounds adjacent to the highway in the park, and over 400 roadside campsites strategically located along the remainder of the route. Fees range from 50 cents a day to two dollars, the latter at Tunnel Mountain, one and a half miles from Banff townsite, a luxurious trailer camp with individual water and sewer connections and electrical plug-ins for 322 trailers.
There’s plenty to see anil do in Banff. August 3-6, the town stages an “Indian Days” celebration, a colorful pageant ol Indian dances and ceremonies, topped oil with an all-Indian rodeo.
After Banff, you sweep out ot mountain grandeur into the foothills that rise and lall in a placid ocean of green. On the banks of the Bow River, five miles from Calgary, is Happy Valley, a 400acre playground with 800 picnic tables, more than 100 barbecues, trout ponds, a kiddyland, and a trailer-and-tent park — all rated “superb in a recent North American survey.
If your schedule takes you to Calgary between July 6 and 15. come equipped with cowboy hats, blue jeans and gingham dresses because this is Stampede time, when Calgarians and visitors from around the w'orlil indulge in an uninhibited Mardi Gras of broncos, bulls, chuckwagons, cowboys, Indians doing the chicken dance, square dancing and flapjack breakfasts on the streets, wild-cow milking, bronco-busting, bulldogging, wild-steer riding and all the other rugged rodeo events that have made the Stampede famous. To top them all, there's a draw for a $100,000 "Pot O' Gold." For Centennial year the Stampede has been extended to nine days and is billed as “The greatest birthday party of all.”
With the Stampede behind you. continue along the Trans-Canada Highway, and stop at Strathmore on August I for Centennial Whooper-Upper Day, with a rodeo and a monster pit barbecue. Another 56 miles take you to hot bannocks and beans at Bassano's Centennial Indian Day and Rodeo, where you're apt to rub shoulders with some of Chief Sitting Bull's descendants.
Medicine Hat — the city with “all hell for a basement,” according to Kipling — also aims to be the corniest community in Alberta in 1967. celebrating Centennial with a week-long corn festival, August 14-19, a Corn Princess, corn roasts, corn-eating contests and street dances.
Something unique in Canadian Centennial celebrations will be Lethbridge's official opening of its four-acre Nikka Yuko Centennial Garden, the largest authentic Japanese garden outside Japan (complete with Geisha girls and a pool of royal carp from Emperor Hirohito’s moat).
Then there will be an exciting re-enactment of the old stagecoach run between Fort Macleod and Fort Whoop-Up, on Lethbridge's outskirts, with a mock Indian raid and a hold-up. ( I he last great Indian battle in the Canadian west w'as fought near Fort Whoop-Up in 1870. The Lethbridge Kinsmen Club, as a Centennial project, is reconstructing historic buildings, including Fort Whoop-Up. on 23 acres of the city's 50-acre Indian Battle Park.)
Klondike Days, a nine - day spectacular in Alberta’s capital of Edmonton, July 20-29. is a good reason to make the 179-mile journey north from Calgary. (The miles slip by quickly on the four-lane divided highway with a minimum of curves and a 70-mph speed limit.)
The show commemorates those hardy adventurers w'ho went north seeking gold before the
turn of the century. You’ll sec the hilarious Sourdough Raft Race on the North Saskatchewan River and, if you're lucky, pan for gold alongside Prime Minister Pearson at the Chilkoot Mine. The mine will be heavily salted with real gold nuggets and “prospectors” keep what they find.
If you've never been to Edmonton before, a licet of “Centennial Tourist Pilots” on motorcycles will serve to guide and assist out-of-province motorists, and finally send them on their way eastward.
SASKATCHEWAN: Saskatchewan started a birthday celebration — its Diamond Jubilee — in 1965, and just never stopped. So Canada’s Centennial becomes the climax of two years of continuous celebrating.
Inside the western border is the frontier town of Maple (reek and one of Saskatchewan’s four Trans-Canada campsites — large, ultra-modern overnight stops along the main highway. A few miles south is Cypress Hills Provincial Park, a superb vacation spot and a geographical wonder in flat Saskatchewan, and the site of old Fort Walsh, an original NWMP outpost restored as a Centennial project.
At Swift Current, 80 miles east (two hours on the Trans-Canada Highway, or about a day on the Long Lance Vacation Trail, one of eight opened during Jubilee-Centennial observations) the Frontier Days celebration (July 3-5) will feature a rodeo, frontier costumes and parades. Traveling eastward you reach Cartwheel City (in any other year but 1967 known as Moose Jaw), named after the $100,000 in silver dollars that will be the city's favored Centennial currency.
North from Moose Jaw, on the way to Saskatoon, is the province’s most exciting side trip of the year — to the new Gardiner Dam, to be officially opened July 21. Here is a unique opportunity to watch a new natural resource and vacationland being born as an earth dam more than two miles long, the largest in the world, slowly backs up water to lili Lake Saskatchewan.
Saskatoon will sponsor more than 70 events during the year, but the big one is Pion-Era (June 30 to July 8). In action will be the ancient, ponderous machinery and pioneer relics from the city’s Western Development Museum, and Saskatoon will take on the combined appearance of a 1920s threshing bee and an 1890s hoedown.
Along with Regina, Saskatoon will present a Gala Night in mid-June, climax of a provincewide talent hunt. Other Saskatoon events over the summer include Highland games, harvest barbecues and the National Ladies Golf Championship.
The new Riel Vacation Trail (opening July 22) goes north from Saskatoon through the area of the 1885 Riel Rebellion, relics of which fill the museum at Batoche. Farther north, several provincial parks, as well as Prince Albert National Park, offer the best of freshwater fishing.
The trip south to Regina should be made in time for the July I official Centennial ceremonies in the city’s famous Wascana Centre, a complex of ultra-modern buildings bordering an artificial lake. Other summer programs in Regina include Buffalo Days (July 31 to Aug. 6), called after Regina's earliest name: "Pile O’ [Buffalo] Bones.” Specially minted 50-cent buffalo coins will be legal tender for tourists: Centennial Square Dance Festival (July 14 and 15). culminating a provincewide “Month O' Dancing," with exhibitions by dancers and callers from all over North America; thrice-weekly (from July 14 to Aug. 26) performances ot the play Riel, re-enacting the rebel s life, trial, and execution in Regina in 1885.
Regina’s provincial exhibition (July 31 to Aug. 5) this year includes the Commonwealth Centennial Hereford Show, largest ever held in Canada.
The Jubilee-Centennial Bowl Game (Sept. 10) amounts to a replay of the last Grey Cup game between Ottawa Rough Riders and Saskatchewan’s Grey Cup-winning team.
East of Regina, at McLean, is the third TransCanada camp, and just beyond is the Fishing Lakes resort region, only 20 miles off the highwaty in the Qu'Appelle Valley. A Centennial Indian celebration wall be held in August in Fort Qu’Appelle. an eye-filling pow'w'ow' that attracts tribes from all of western Canada and the United States.
MANITOBA: When you enter Manitoba you're expected to stop at the first town and attach a special plate to your car, announcing your intention to participate in Centennial “fun and games.” And, let’s face it, the emphasis is on “games” — the Pan-American Games, first to be held in Canada (at Winnipeg, July 2 to Aug. 7).
True, there’s scarcely a community without a project of local importance or regional interest, from a new hockey or curling rink, a fishing derby or an ethnic museum, and a full share of till the national traveling attractions. But the big event — Manitobans are calling it the second most important event of Centennial year next to
birthday party of all”—the Stampede
Expo 67 — will be the 400 Pan-American events in 24 sports participated in by 2,500 athletes from 33 countries.
But many smaller Centennial projects in Manitoba should fascinate the traveler, for they emphasize the things that make Manitoba unique.
Manitoba is a province of minorities. The Ukrainian, French, Icelandic and Mennonite constitute a large enough proportion of the population to add their own particular flavor to the community. So you may want to switch north from No. 1 Highway at Winnipeg and travel through the flavorful mixed-racial region of North Winnipeg and on up between Lake Winnipeg and Lake Manitoba to the Icelandic Celebrations — the Islendingadagurinn — at Gimli, or drive west of Winnipeg and turn up No. 10 Highway to the colorful Ukrainian Festival at Dauphin. And a visit to the new Mennonite museum at Steinbach, south of Winnipeg, would be an easy hour of driving and an introduction to another interesting racial group that leavens the Manitoba fabric.
If fishing is your idea of fun, swing back west and north and visit the canoe festival and troutfishing competitions far to the north at Flin Flon, before heading for Ontario.
“Nobody," says NFB cameraman Eugene Boyko, “has been this close to the Golden Boy on top of the Manitoba Legislature dome — except maybe the odd steeplejack. They don’t talk about him much in Winnipeg, possibly because, in the classical tradition, he’s naked. It’s true, he is — / saw him close up. The shot below is the grain elevators at Findlater, Saskatchewan. They were easy to shoot. The toughest part was getting a sequence of the combines cutting wheat. It took a lot of arranging, but we finally persuaded a farmer to harvest some wheat just for our camera. Fie cut 1,200 bushels for us, but it turned out to be too wet to sell. But he didn't mind: he was pleased to be part of our film."
1,000 things to do and see, including sightseeing from Canada’s tallest skyscraper
Stick a pin almost anywhere — make that anywhere — in the map of Ontario's 412.820 square miles and you'll come up with a Centennial project, local improvement, pageant or program of some sort. No fewer than 1,000 different items are listed in Ontario's Centennial program for 1967, more than 100 in Ottawa alone.
The first major operation after entering the province from Manitoba is at Port Arthur, where a new' bush camp at Centennial Park depicts w'hat a logging site looked like at the turn of the century. Stroll around the lumberhouse and grounds long enough to work up a man-sized appetite, then tackle a typical lumberjack meal.
If you’re planning your trip for early August, try to take in the Wikwemikong Indian Powwow on Manitoulin Island. If not, just enjoy the scenery en route east — particularly in the forestfringed. bay - indented Algoma section of the Trans-Canada Highway along the shores of Lake Superior, pausing at Marathon long enough to enjoy trout for lunch, fresh out of cold water, and admire the town’s new Centennial library.
Stay with the scenic Blue Water Highway as long as you can on your way to Stratford, where you should book well ahead for at least one of the Centennial-year plays (Antony and Cleopatra, The Merry Wives of Windsor, Richard III and Gogol’s The Government Inspector). The
Shakespearean Festival opens June 12, and a full week of Centennial celebrations will be held July 1 to 8. If you can't get tickets for a play, visit the theatre anyway to see the fluted-roof design and apron stage that have made it one of the most-copied structures of its kind. Sample the smorgasbord at the nearby Victorian Inn, where there’s dancing and a revue.
If you’re traveling on July 1, try to spend Dominion Day in Brantford. This is one of the smaller cities in Canada, but its 58,981 residents are planning a Centennial parade “bigger than the Pasadena Rose Bowl’s.” with 100 floats and 10,000 marchers.
No one should visit Ontario without seeing Niagara Falls. The tourist industry is so well organized here that in addition to the famous Falls you can see everything from a 3.400-yearold mummy of General Ossipumphnoferu to a display of World War II airplanes. Niagara Falls boasts as large an area of parks as any city in Canada, but one of its principal Centennial projects is — what else? — a fine new' park. A Niagara Falls conversation piece is lunch or dinner in the new' Skylon Tower, high above the Falls, w'hich brings the scenery to you the easy way by making a complete circuit in the time it takes to eat a meal.
If you’re in the area on June 30, it's worth a stop in Hamilton for a special Sunset Service that evening and the lighting of Centennial fireworks
from the top of their “mountain.” Even if you can't make it on this date, visit Dundurn Castle there, a 72-room mansion built in 1834 by Sir Allan MacNab and completely refurbished for Centennial year. After dark, there’s an intriguing son et lumière spectacle that recreates the atmosphere of a century ago — down to the rattle of coaches and chatter of wedding guests in the great hall — through concealed lighting and stereophonic sound effects. Hamilton’s famous public gardens will be ablaze wdth special Centennial floral displays through the summer.
From Hamilton it’s a fast 42-mile drive down the multilane “QE” to Toronto. If you’re there between August 18 and September 4 you’ll be able to see the world’s biggest annual fall fair, the veteran Canadian National Exhibition, which this year w'ill compete with a brash newcomer, Montreal's Expo 67. And almost any time you'll find great shows at the $ 12-million O'Keefe Centre.
Toronto has come a long way from the days when it was called “The Good.” Now it boasts a city hall described as the “sexiest building in Canada.” Standing in its front yard is possibly the most controversial of all Centennial projects, Henry Moore’s sculpture, “The Archer.” And throughout the summer it will be surrounded by other modern sculpture, chosen by a committee headed by equally controversial art connoisseur Dorothy Cameron.
Toronto's second-most-publicized building is the
"A castle on the Rhine? No, it’s a castle in the Thousand Islands (actually, there are 1,835 islands in the chain), built along medieval European lines by a wealthy New Yorker — who never lived in it. For a touch of military pomp and circumstance (at far right), we eased down to get a new-slant look at troops in ceremonial bearskins and scarlet tunics.”
new 740-foot Toronto-Dominion Centre, which will offer the highest view in the Commonwealth from its 55th-story observation deck.
En route to the nation’s capital along multilane 401, stop off in the history-steeped “limestone city” of Kingston, much of which still looks as it did when young John A. Macdonald first ran for political office there. His home, Bellevue House, has been restored as a Centennial project, and visitors are welcome, as they are at Fort Henry where university students in 1867 red tunics do century-old drills. Exciting yacht racing by youngsters is promised at the Navy League Sea Cadet world yachting championships at Kingston, August 16-18.
Twenty miles east of Kingston is Gananoque,
gateway of the Thousand Islands. Take a river cruise through the islands (there are about 1,835 of them), and if you’re there on Sunday attend the interdenominational church service held in one of the bays for a congregation gathered in small boats.
Make one more stop — Upper Canada Village near Morrisburg, where costumed attendants reenact the life of 100 years ago in authentic pioneer surroundings — and then head for Ottawa.
See the Parliament Buildings where tomorrow's history is being made, and the no-cost Mile of History along Sussex Drive which takes you past the home of the prime minister and the governor general’s residence, Rideau Hall (the
grounds are open to the public). Every evening at dusk a son et lumière spectacle will portray 300 years of Canadian history against the impressive backdrop of Parliament Hill. And if you're there between August 2 and 16, try to see Sir Tyrone Guthrie’s much-touted Centennial show in front of the Peace Tower.
Interested in target shooting? Ottawa is the scene of the all-Canada Centennial prize meeting, August 10-19. Also in Ottawa, the Canadian Open tennis championships will be held August 14-17. If you happen to be leaving Ottawa for Montreal early in August, it might be fun to join the Centennial tour of antique automobiles in their valiant attempt to span the distance between the capital and Expo 67 from August 2 to 5.
World Festival of the greatest talent on earth, and Expo —it’s where you’ve got to be
This year, all roads lead to Expo 67. Or to give it the proper title, the Universal and International Exhibition, 1967. It’s the first true world’s fair ever to be held in North America. It is also Canada’s largest single Centennial project.
By early 1967 some 90,000 Canadians had booked advance hotel accommodation in Montreal for the six months of Expo 67. The majority of the reservations came from Ontario (next was British Columbia), so it stands to reason that most Canadian travelers will cross over to Montreal Island at tiny Ile Per rot. where Highways No. 17 from Ottawa and No. 2 from Toronto converge. But 60 percent of the advance bookings, another 150.000, have come from south of the border. Visitors from the United States will likely arrive via the new eight-lane No. 9, which is being rushed to completion this spring.
Driving in Montreal isn't nearly as chaotic as it was five years ago. Decarie Boulevard has become part of the Trans-Canada Highway link that will take you right into the heart of Montreal, and once there, the advice is to park your car — it takes a newcomer a little time to adapt himself to the average Montrealer’s aggressive driving habits. Besides, it will give you the opportunity to use the newest, quietest, and most eye-pleasing subway system in North America.
Mayor Jean Drapeau of Montreal made the decision himself to base the Montreal subway system on that of Paris’s famous Métro — after he had spent weeks trying out the subways of Toronto, New' York and London. Torontonians, used to the ear-piercing screech of metal against metal, will quickly recognize the advantage of the rubber-tired wheels used by Montreal’s Métro. The comparison doesn't stop there. Someone recently described Toronto’s subway stations as looking like an unending succession of public washrooms without plumbing. Not so in Montreal. Each of the 26 stations has been designed differently. Glass, concrete, colored tile and steel have all been manipulated by the designers for aesthetic appeal.
And now, Mayor Drapeau has talked Montreal firms into donating a specially commissioned work of art for each station. Among the first to become involved was Steinberg's Ltd., the Montreal-based food chain. Says Nathan Steinberg, the company's senior vice-president, “Culture today is for everyone, and we feel we have a responsibility to give something back to our customers.” The Steinberg mural at the Place des Arts station, adjoining Montreal's concert hall, will depict the history of music in Montreal as depicted by Canadian artist Frederick Back. A small brass plaque beneath the mural will identify the donor.
The next problem to solve in Montreal is accommodation — that is, of course, if you already haven't booked in advance through Jacques Belanger at I.ODGEXI’O. The number to phone is EXP-8397. A girl will take down the details, how many in the party, children, the price range you're willing to pay and the type of accommodation you want — hotel, tourist home, private residence. She will then feed it all into a computer and in 30 seconds will have an address for you to go to.
Belanger insists that his staff of more than 70 will always be able to find a bed for visitors and that they have prepared for a peak load of 160.000 visitors a day. Another 70 workers have been installed in a special information-services department that will keep in continual contact
with hotel and motel owners to serve as a backup function to the computer. “People forget,” says Belanger, "that Montreal is an island 13 miles by nine miles long. And in a normal period there are enough hotels, motels, and tourist camps to take care of 60,000 people a day.” For those visitors who have come prepared, Belanger's computer will have the information on 20,000 spots available in campsites within a 50-mile radius of Montreal. One of them, on the south shore, is a natural park on the side of Mount Bruno and offers a spectacular view of Montreal and the St. Lawrence.
Much has already been written about the Expo site on St. Helen's island, the pavilions of 70 nations, and the Man And His World theme (see Maclean's, Oct. 15). But little has been published about the fantastic array of world talent that will be presented every night of Expo’s 183 days. It is being called a World Festival and it really is that. For example, in the opening weeks alone you can see the Los Angeles Philharmonic, a production by the Théâtre de France, Ballet du Vingtième Siècle of Belgium, the Red Army C horus and Dancers, the Stockholm Royal Opera Company, and Man the Daredevil — a collection ol the most death-defying stunts performed in circuses around the w'orld.
If you tire of the city, the best answer is an excursion into the Laurentians, easily accessible by the Autoroute des Laurentidcs which runs directly north from Montreal for 80 miles into the mountains. The Laurentians (which include a provincial park) are Montreal’s playground, and no matter what time of year you visit you will find every summer and winter sport available: tennis, waiter skiing, golf, skating, snow skiing. And at all the resorts there are professional instructors for the beginners.
Accommodation in the Laurentians is well organized and caters to the vacationing secretary as w'cll as the millionaire. There are sophisticated and intimate hotels such as the Manoir Pinoteau, located on the shore of Lac Tremblant and at the foot of ski-famous Mont Tremblant. The cuisine is French, and the hotel offers penthouse apartments, cottages with five bedrooms, and luxurious suites. Registration at the hotel includes unlimited use of all ski lifts throughout the Laurentians. Then there is the more reasonably priced Mont Gabriel Lodge, just 45 minutes from Montreal and located at the top of Mont Gabriel. There are 15 ski hills, a giant, heated swimming pool, sleighing, horseback riding, and all the other usual resort activities.
To tie in with Centennial - year celebrations, Quebec province has scheduled a number of events — some new. some traditional — that should be noted by vacationers traveling through the province:
On June 24 the annual St. Jean-Baptiste torchlight parade is staged through downtown Montreal. Valley!ield will be the setting for the country's largest speedboat races July 7-16 when the international regatta is held. The Eighth Montreal International Film Festival and the Fifth Annual Festival of Canadian Films will be held in Montreal, August 4 to 18. A 24-mile marathon swim will be held on Lac St. Jean between Peribonka and Roberval on August 5. And on September 2-4 an international canoe race will take place on the St. Maurice River between La Tuque and Three Rivers.
Three Rivers is on a vastly improved highway along the north shore, and only 80 miles southwest of historic Quebec City. The traveler can
continue east by crossing the St. Lawrence at Quebec, and following the Trans-Canada Highway on the south shore to Rivière du Loup where it strikes south to Edmundston, New Brunswick. But to go south so soon is to deny yourself the pleasure of the Gaspé Peninsula. The alternative is a circuitous one, but worthwhile. Follow No. 10 Highway along the coastline to Mont Joli and then No. 6 around the rugged Gaspé Peninsula itself, through Ste. Anne des Monts, Gaspé, Percé, Bonaventurc, and finally down around to Matapedia at the border of New Brunswick and Quebec. It's a little Centennial project in itself, and an unforgettable two-day drive.
"As part of our coverage of Quebec City (right), we wanted to get a shot of French sailors passing three girls on the boardwalk, then wheeling and following. But no French sailors — or French uniforms. So we dressed ihree Canadian soldiers in Canadian Navy uniforms, which we’d converted to look French. To get face shots of the bicycle racers (far right), we had to fly about a foot off the ground, hopping over houses in our way."
A journey through time, back to the foothold lands of explorers, where Canada was born
THE Driving through the Atlantic provinces this summer will be like driving through history. From Acadian fishing ports to capital cities the Centennial festivals generally reflect an era before Canada was born — an era in which Scotsmen, Englishmen and Frenchmen fought and worked to lay the foundation for a nation.
NEW BRUNSWICK: Entering New Brunswick from Quebec, for instance, the highway along the province’s fabled North Shore from Campbellton to Caraquet parallels the route Jacques Cartier took in 1534. This is mainly Acadian country and throughout the summer the North Shore communities will celebrate their epic heritage. In July. Caraquet holds its fisheries festival in which the Gulf fishing fleet is blessed in an ancient and colorful ceremony.
Swinging south to Fredericton, the road passes through Newcastle where lumberjack legends are
revived in the Miramichi folksong festival in August. Fredericton, elm-shaded and serene in its UEL memories, offers a chamber-music festival. Maliseet Indian festivals, an international horse show, parades, military pageants and summer theatre. A side trip west from Fredericton could take in Woodstock's old-home week, the potato festivals at Hartland and Grand Falls, and the Danish festival at New Denmark.
South from Fredericton the highway winds down to the harbor of Saint John, discovered by Samuel de Champlain in 1604. The city celebrates that event June 24 with a ceremonial visit of the fishing fleet, regattas and a rollicking fishmongers' ball. The national finals of the Canadian Centenary Music Festival will be held here July 6-15. Earlier in the summer the city is producing a pageant drama commemorating the romantic Marie La Tour. She died of heartbreak in 1645 after her husband's fort fell and all the defenders were hanged. Suburban Rothesay is also mounting a Centennial drama festival of its own, in addition
to its now-traditional annual Highland games.
Heading east from Saint John, the scenic route passes through lush dairy country and Fundy National Park to Moncton. The city opens its Centennial park and holds a week-long bicultural birthday party in August. Gourmets should not miss the strawberry festival at Memramcook and the lobster festival at the beach resort of Shediac — both in July.
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND: From Shediac it’s a short drive east to Cape Tormentine and the ferry to Prince Edward Island. Drivers taking the ferry will have a perfect view of the early stages of the $ 148-million causeway-bridge-tunnel complex that will link the North Shore of New Brunswick with Port Borden. Five miles inland at Albany Junction the road forks — right for Charlottetown and left for Summerside. This summer it will make little difference. Centennial celebrations abound throughout the island.
Most Centennial travelers will probably bear
right and head for the birthplace of Confederation. Charlottetown, naturally, is going all-out on Dominion Day with Centennial Eve balls, 100gun salutes and the ringing of church bells all over the province. On July 3 Charlottetown's Confederation Theatre will open its Festival ’67 season. In mid-August the capital holds Old-Home Week and the provincial exhibition. On Sept. 1 and 2 special ceremonies in the new Confederation Memorial Centre will mark the 103rd anniversary of the first meeting of the Fathers of Contederation.
Throughout July, six major communities on the island will be having special days with the dedication of Centennial projects, parades, public meals, pageants and evening dances. At Summerside in mid-July the annual Lobster Carnival will be under way, offering all the lobster anyone could wish to eat. Trenchermen still feeling hungry for seafood can move on to the village of Tyne Valley where an oyster festival, started in 1964, is now an annual event in early August despite the absence of an “R” in the month.
The island is so small that no community is much more than a couple of hours' drive away. Visitors who thrill to the sound of bagpipes will want to take in the Scottish Festival at North Rustico and the Highland games at Eldon — both held in early August. Visitors touring the island in July will probably spot Queen Mother
Elizabeth taking part in the festivities. Based aboard the Royal Yacht Britannia, the Queen Mother will make a three-week tour of all four Atlantic provinces.
NOVA SCOTIA: Crossing back to the mainland and into Nova Scotia across the Isthmus of Chignecto. the driver passes through the border towm of Amherst and on toward New Glasgow and northern Nova Scotia's Scottish communities, including Cape Breton Island. As part of the general Centennial celebrations, the clans gather at Pugwash on July I, the Nova Scotia Arts festival opens in Tatamagouche August 11, the Pictou Lobster Carnival opens July 7, in New Glasgow the Tartan Festival begins in mid-August.
Heading southwest the highway passes through Truro, established by New Englanders in the 18th century, and then south to Halifax, founded by Britons in 1749 as a counterthreat to the French fortress of Louisbourg on Cape Breton.
Halifax celebrates its own birthday on June 21. Dartmouth, across the harbor, celebrates its anniversary on August 2 and rounds off the ceremonies with an arts festival. The province's Centennial showpiece, however, is a four-day Nova Scotia Folk Festival and Highland Games, expected to draw some 1,500 whirling dancers, hammerthrowers and musicians to Halifax lor a spectacle that starts August 24.
“The Bluenose symbolizes the Maritimes. The original world-beater has gone, but we sent her namesake to sea and hovered close for shooting. I was going to skip Peggy’s Cove, NS — it's been overdone — but as we chased some gulls, I took another look . . . and shot a gull’s-eye view.”
Marine and science museums in Dartmouth and Halifax will carry period shows throughout the summer. There’ll also be craft exhibits in Edward. Duke of Kent's handsome clock tower and the city's now-famous repertory theatre. The Neptune, will perform six plays during the season, including a new Canadian drama. The Halifax Theatre Arts Guild is mounting Highland Heart Of Nova Scotia and three one-acters, another group has created a short opera called Scottish Landing, and Nova Scotia's Negro communities are together producing a play called Coining Here To Stay.
South from Halifax the coastal highway skirts Mahone Bay. where elaborate Centennial celebrations are scheduled from July 1 to 9. and moves on to the deepsea fishing town of Lunenburg, founded by German settlers in the 1750s. Here the last of the famous fishing schooners has been turned into a Centennial museum and a special Centennial display of fisheries exhibits will be on view during the summer. Farther down the coast at Barrington two Centennial plays have been commissioned to celebrate the first landings there by rugged New England settlers.
From Yarmouth, on the southern tip of Nova Scotia, the highway loops through Clare County fishing communities where many Acadians were resettled. On August 13 the Acadian festival celebrates their return. / continued overleaf
A birthday trek ends on a windy hill, with a view east to where Canada’s story began
Then the road passes through the resort town of Dighy, touches Annapolis Royal (once the capital of French Acadia), and winds northeast through the rich Annapolis Valley back to Halifax.
North from Halifax the marine highway skirts the rocky eastern shore, passes through the former gold-mining centre of Sherbrooke and on to the college town of Antigonish, where yet another Highland games will have its fling July 9-15. North across the Cape Breton causeway at St. Peter’s travelers should pause to glance at Nicholas Denys’s 1650 trading post, rebuilt for the Centennial, before moving on to the coal-and-steel communities of (dace Bay anti Sydney. At (dace Bay a brand-new coal mine forms part of the Centennial miners' museum, and across the cape, at St. Ann’s, the only Gaelic college on the continent plans to drink a cup of kindness yet throughout the week of August 7-12.
NFWFOUNDI.AND: From North Sydney it’s a comfortable eight-hour journey on the ferry William Carson to connect with the Trans-Canada at Port aux Basques. Nfld. From there it’s a 560mile road trip through Canada’s newest province to St. John's, the most easterly (and possibly the oldest) city in North America. The first major stop is Corner Brook, where a Centennial arts centre and library will be inaugurated during the summer. Swinging into the interior of the island toward Grand Falls, drivers will find a multitude of provincial parks and camping sites refurbished for Centennial visitors.
In St. John's itself Centennial celebrations begin May 22-27 with the finals of the Dominion Drama Festival — hopefully held in the city’s new Arts and Cultural Centre which is still under construction. The St. John's Folk Arts Council plans programs of dancing, singing, story-telling and pag-
eantry during the summer months. Some of these festivities will be held in conjunction with the city’s annual regatta, August 2, on Quidi Vidi Lake, the continent's oldest sporting event.
The Centennial traveler's grand climax, however, should be the historical display on top of Signal Hill. For a six-week period beginning July 22 members of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment. dressed in uniforms of the 1850s and using equipment from the same Crimean War period, will manoeuvre and hold mock skirmishes on the famous parade ground. From this continental lookout the Centennial visitor can gaze east across the grey Atlantic toward the far-off shores where, in Britain and France and even Denmark, the story really began.
For a detailed listing of national and provincial Centennial events, turn to page 49.