Yes, it’s been eclipsed by northern California, and by dozens of ethnic, fusion and other new world cuisines. But Paris remains a capital of gustatory pleasure, a place where dining really matters. Remembrance of Things Paris: Sixty Years of Writing from Gourmet!Random House), edited by the magazine’s current doyenne, Ruth Reichl, is a tasty evocation of the food-obsessed city then and now.
The book is as much a social history as a compilation of food writing. A 1947 article describes the privation following the Second World War, when it was difficult to get decent wines, pastries, coffee or meals with more than two or three courses. Three authors reflect on Les Halles, the fabled inner-city market that was supplanted in the early '70s by a fashion mall. In a 2001 piece, Diane Johnson of Le Divorce fame notes that Parisians assume she, an American, cannot cook-to the point where she almost forgets how to.
The story you want is part of the Maclean’s Archives. To access it, log in here or sign up for your free 30-day trial.
Experience anything and everything Maclean's has ever published — over 3,500 issues and 150,000 articles, images and advertisements — since 1905. Browse on your own, or explore our curated collections and timely recommendations.WATCH THIS VIDEO for highlights of everything the Maclean's Archives has to offer.